Grungy to Gorgeous With Home Made Chalk Paint

Always on the hunt for new furniture finds, my hubby and I frequent thrift stores, garage sales, estate sales, and classifieds.
We found this piece at one of our favorite places. It had been sitting in their store for close to a month and, because it was quite large, the manager was ready to deal. Best price: the whole shebang for $50. 
Great bones, but boy was it ugly!
                                                                                                                            Before

 

This project involved the following:

• Painting fabric with latex paint and fabric medium
• Stripping paint off of the table top
• Painting with home-made chalk paint (recipe below)
• Glaze
• Highlighting with "Baroque Gilder's Paste"
• Sealing

List of Supplies:

• Plastic Container
• Cheese cloth
• Flat Latex Paint
• Plaster of Paris
• Paint Stirrer
• Paint Stripper
• Putty Knife
• Wood Conditioner
• Wood Stain
• Polyurethane
• Finishing Wax
• Baroque Gilder's Paste
• Fabric Medium (I used Delta Creamcoat Textile Medium)
• Satin Latex Paint
• Spray Bottle
• 200 Grit Sandpaper
• Nylon Scrub Brush
• Paper Plate
• Bucket Water/Rags

I decided that I wanted to go with a light color (off-white) because the pieces were so large.  I really don't like painted table tops, and there was a great existing wood design, so I decided to contrast the light body with a dark stained table top (sorry, no before pic...sometimes I jump in and forget to take pictures).
Rather than re-cover the ugly gold velvet-look fabric, I decided to try to paint it. After all, I could always recover if I had to. Why not try!

Painting the cushions
Take cushions off of chairs saving the screws; commence painting. This took MANY coats-4 thin coats but it worked!

Directions: 
Step 1. :  Mix equal parts, fabric medium, satin latex paint, water in a plastic container with a lid (large yogurt container works great). This will be watery.
Step 2. :  Wet cushions completely with water using a squirt bottle BEFORE applying paint.
Step 3. :  Apply paint with a brush, then work in gently with a nylon scrub brush. Let dry. Repeat until desired coverage is achieved.
Step 4. :  Sand the entire surface with 200 grit sandpaper. This softens the fabric; makes it pliable.

Note: My finished product took a few days to dry completely, I lived in a very humid climate. The finished product was not super soft, more like suede but it was great for a dining set. Possibly, if the fabric was smoother (like cotton rather than faux velvet) the end result would have been smoother.

                                              Here the chair is AFTER (chair painted too)

Refinishing Dining Table Top
As explained in my Paul Laszlo tutorial, apply the paint stripper. I use Stripeeze. Because used the stripper in a humid climate, it worked very quickly.  You can tell when it's ready-the paint actually starts to bubble up and lift. Remove the paint gunk with a putty knife.

Concerned that I would gouge the beveled edge, I sanded the table edge. Once all the paint was removed I thoroughly wiped down the surface with lacquer thinner. This does two things, it removes any residue and keeps the surface grain from lifting (it would if you used water).  Then I applied Minwax Wood Conditioner.
Note:  I have skipped this step a few times and regretted it because the stain took blotchy. Now, no matter what kind of wood I am staining after stripping, I use wood conditioner.
Once the conditioner sunk into the wood, I applied Minwax Ebony let it sit about 15 minutes and wiped down the surface.

Painting the Table and Chairs

I have heard wonderful things about professional ready-made chalk paint, but I try to do things on a budget without sacrificing the final product. I make my own for a few reasons: it's more cost effective and I am not restricted to any color scheme.

Chalk Paint Recipe with Plaster of Paris
3:1 Ratio:
3 parts paint
1 part Plaster of Paris
Tad of Water (tbl or 2)

I use a large yogurt container and mark the side with a sharpie so I know how much Plaster of Paris to use. I don't like to measure. Allow for the shape of the container (wider at the top).  Pour in Plaster of Paris and add just a tad of water, mix. Add more water as needed. You are going for pancake batter. Mix it WELL.
Add the paint and mix well. You are ready to go!  This recipe works very well, adheres well, and dries very quickly. All good things!

Note: I have also used Calcium Carbonate. This is my top pick because the paint is really smooth (Plaster of Paris mixture is a close second), but you have to order it online. When I did this dining set I was crunched for time. Plaster of Paris can be purchased at any home improvement store.

Calcium Carbonate Recipe
2:1 Ratio:
2 parts paint
1 part Calcium Carbonate
Tad Water
Warning: Please wear a mask while mixing Calcium Carbonate Powder, this stuff is not good for your lungs!!  Like the Plaster of Paris recipe, mix the powder with water first, mix until you achieve a smooth creamy texture, add paint. Mix well.

I painted the dining set and chairs an off white. The chairs were not fun. All those legs, ugh!  I had it with the paint brush and decided to try dipping cheesecloth in the paint. It worked great because I could wipe the paint around the leg and all those curves.

Glazing and Gilding
I really didn't want an antique look, I just wanted to highlight all the beautiful edges and bring out the beauty. I do this with using a dry brush technique.
Mixture:   Valspar Antiquing Glaze, Valspar Clear Glaze (enough clear to thin and extend time but NOT lose color depth.).
Dry Brush:  Dip chip brush in glaze and pounce most of the glaze off on a paper plate. Holding the brush at an angle apply the glaze just to the edges.

One product that I absolutely love is Baroque Gilder's Paste (purchase online). This comes in a tin and is oil-based. It dries quickly and has fantastic adhesion. To use, simply pick some up on your finger by rubbing your finger over the paste, then rub the surface of the piece gently. You can always add more by reapplying.

This pictures shows the edges glazed and the raised detail gilded. I did the same with the door detail above.  I used German Silver.



After all of the pieces were painted, glazed, and gilded I used Annie Sloan's Clear Wax on all surfaces but the top. I used Minwax's Wipe On Polyurethane because it is a dining table. Yes, I have read that AS's wax is fine, but I wanted to be sure.



                                                       Here is the finished Product

                                                                                 

Stain Over Dye Tutorial

Hopefully, this tutorial will help to take the fear out of stripping and refinishing furniture. Although I do love to finish pieces with paints, glazes, and various sealants sometimes the piece calls for a more natural finish.

Here is a step-by-step tutorial. If I lack a picture, I will try to explain and list all the products that I used.

I finished these pieces in Colorado at high elevation so the stripper evaporated very quickly...not good when stripper should sit on the surface to do it's thing. However, never one to give up, I researched a bit and found if I applied the stripper and then hit it with lacquer thinner (as often as required to keep surface wet) the stripper worked fine. If you live in a humid climate you should not have to do this. Always use lacquer in a well ventilated area and wear a mask when using stripper or lacquer thinner!

Supply List:

• Strypeeze Paint Remover
• Flexible Putty Knife
• 2-3 Rolls Paper Towel
• Gloves
• Bucket of Water
• Lacquer Thinner (if in dry climate)
• Mask
• Plastic Wrap
• Wood Bleach
• Sandpaper (80, 100, 150, 220 grits)
• wood putty (if necessary)
• Water based wood dye
• Oil based stain
• Wipe on Polyurethane
• Old WHITE T-shirt cut into pieces

This might sound like an long list, but this will make the job much easier.

Dresser and Side Tables BEFORE

 

 

Step 1.  Remove Paint:  On a flat surface like the side tables, this is messy but not really hard, it just takes patience. Apply the stripper with a throw away chip brush (wear gloves and mask--work in WELL ventilated area).  I tend to work on one area at a time starting from the top and working down the piece.Tear off any type of plastic wrap (you could use plastic grocery bags) and cover the area. Let it sit for a few hours or even overnight.  If you live in a dry climate let it sit a few hours THEN apply lacquer thinner and go to work removing the paint.

Begin removing paint with a putty knife. Careful not to dig the edge into the surface. Keep it pretty flat. Wipe the gunk off with paper towel. IF you get any on your hands, rinse  them immediately in water.

Because the dresser was so intricate, I had to use dental tools to get the white paint out of the nooks and crannies. Useful in inside corners too.  If necessary, you can use 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to remove stubborn areas but be careful not to blow through veneer.

 

Step 2. Wash Surface to Neutralize Stripper: Now that the paint is off (I know, thank you God! Believe me, I don't enjoy that process either), the fun starts!  Wash down all surfaces completely with warm water and a sponge. Flood the surface but don't let the water sit. Wash it well, and change the water a few times. See below, all paint is removed, but there is still some residue. This will wash off with water.

 

 

Step 3. Bleach the Surface: 





 

 

Following mixing the directions on the product, thoroughly apply to the piece. This helps to restore the original finish. You can skip this step, but if it's a high-end piece it's worth it.  I used a soft plastic brush that I got from the local big box store. Work into the surface being careful not to scratch.  After piece is completely rinsed (multiple times to make sure it's off). Let it dry completely.

 

Step 4. Fill (if necessary): My piece had chips in the veneer, so I used wood fill NOT putty, let it dry and sanded smooth.

 

Step 5.  Sand:  Because you used so much water, the grain is likely bulging! Don't worry, sand by hand with 150 grit and follow up with a fine sanding sponge. ALWAYS sand with the grain. Use your hands to feel the surface making sure it feels smooth.

 

Step 6. Apply Lacquer Thinner:  After sanding, apply lacquer thinner with a lint-free rag (I use old white T-shirts). This will show you if there are any sanding marks and it prepares the surface nicely for dye, stain, and finish. Let it dry completely. 

 

 

Step 7. Apply Dye: Because I wanted a warm, mahogany finish I dyed the surface orange. Don't worry, we will tone it down with stain! I like General Finishes (available online). Dye not only gives great depth of color to the finished product (it gives dimension), but it also helps to seal the surface so stain doesn't grab every sanding mark.



Here they are dyed orange.

 

Step 8. Stain:  Almost there now! Let the dye dry completely. IF grain has lifted, just knock it down with a fine sanding sponge. It shouldn't because wood tends to raise it's grain only once BUT if for some reason it does, no biggie, just lightly sand it.

Note: I used a test piece (Oak, because the pieces are Oak) to test the dye and stain colors before hitting the pieces.

 

I chose Minwax's Dark Walnut, but decided I wanted it a bit darker still. So, I let the Dark Walnut dry and then applied Minwax's Jacobean.

 

Step 9. Seal: Finally!!! I use Minwax's Wipe On Polyurethane, Satin. Make sure the surface is completely dry. This is important---if not, the poly will NOT adhere or will cloud. Ensure that it is clean and free of dust. Apply thin layers, I apply 2 (lightly sanding in between with fine sanding sponge).

 

 Hopefully, you can see in the pictures below how the combination of dye and stain gives unbelievable depth and dimension. Honestly, color seems to explode from the surface.